Have you ever thought about going surfing?
Well if you haven’t, now you have!!! Haha. Got ya.
Of course I was never someone who dreamt about the biggest wave imaginable and possibly riding it! Actually that crazy thought would make me stay up another half hour in the middle of the night!! But there I was in Christchurch, NZ surfing for the first time in my life!! I never thought I would get the chance but then Jay’s friend Jeni organized a day of surfing for me!!! I enjoyed it SOOOO much that I’ve decided to do it for the WHOLE WEEK!!! I was so excited on my third wave I started trying to stand up on my board!! I got the hang of it on my twelfth wave though but I got this really HUGE wave and I stood up and was yelling to Jay that i was really DOING it!! Then the wave started to slow down and I was still trying to balance and then my board VEERED sharply to the left and then I went catapulting off the side of my board! Luckily it wasn’t too shallow but still…!! I had a ripper (I’m going to copy Max who is trying to copy Jackson!!) of a time out there catching waves and flying off my board!!!
Jeez… I’m not gonna go all “Yo dude surfing is the best!!” but it WAS one of my favourite times in the ocean!! I may actually try and convince you all to surf!! I had a WAY better time than I thought I would because on TV you see these HUGE waves and so yeah I was scared at first but then I learned that sometimes the smaller waves are better than the bigger ones because the bigger ones burn themselves out so you get a longer ride on the small ones. At the start I took the waves that all the other kids took because they knew better than I did, but at the end of it I started taking the ones that I thought were better because I thought I could trust my instincts more!!
I had a blast surfing and tomorrow I get to go again!! It’s going to be AWESOME!!!! I also liked how there were only around twenty kids and even THEN they split the groups in half so the surf wasn’t overcrowded!!! i didn’t talk much to the other kids though because more surf = less chat!! I think surfing should also be an Olympic sport because you can use a wave pool to test athletes!! At the end of the week that I’m enrolled I hope to be in the Green Zone Waves which is where the water looks green so that's why they call it the GREEN Zone!! I think I can make it by the end of the week!! Overall my experience has been AMAZING!!!!
Next time then,